Heart Surfboards

Last weekend I went to Santa Cruz and surfed the swell. I stayed the week at sunset beach and surfed chest to head high fun waves and shaped a few boards. I shaped a step up 6'3 semi-pin, an 8'4 mini longboard, a 7'6 gunny minigun, and a 9'4 noserider. I almost put the fin on the tail of the noserider, then it would be a proper log.

Back at Ocean Beach, the swell was stormy and the swell was building all day today. The winds were light until the afternoon when it went off-shore pretty hard and it really shaped the waves up. It was so late in the day I was not sure if I had time to suit up and find a good rip and be able to make it worth the paddle battle before dark. I only saw two, maybe three, guys out from mid beach north (there might have been a few people south of Ortega).I watched for maybe an hour and this was the only wave ridden and it did not end as pretty as it began.

When there is a lot of swell in the water and it is still building, it is crazy how big some of the sets are. The bumps out the back are easily a half mile out.