When I woke up today I knew there was a lot of swell but I could not hear it this morning, because it was howling offshore early. It was top to bottom up and down the beach early.

It mellowed out before dark, swell dropping, winds laying down.

10.2 @19 sec. west

EASTWINDS

I took a few pictures Monday when the swell had just started backing off and the winds were offshore. There was only one guy out.

I like how gnarly this wave looks.


If you look in the left corner of this wave you can see the only guy out, to the right is a giant heaving lip. It's hard to tell from the empty waves that it is really big.

This one is from the design line of the MR twins

6'2 x 21.25 x 2.75

I love the pigment work orange/yellow/black/white, free laps

A custom for Bobby.

Just picked up a few boards...

This one is a 5'9 x 21.70 80ish bump squash.

Should be a blast in little racy pockets.

I have been really into single fins these days. I built this 6'6 hull off of a 7'2 I have. The 7'2 has no tail rocker and I would always find myself out in front of the section I really wanted to be in and it was not very easy to stall. The 6'6 fits into tighter pockets on the wave and stalls just enough. I was down south a few weeks ago and caught a perfect day at the Newport river jetty, overhead lined up tubes, it worked really well. I'll part with this one for $375

I got this 6'10 1976 G&S stinger a few years back and I hardly ever surf for fear I will break it. It has never let me down in head-high and bigger surf... So I copied it, only difference I built it out of EPS/Epoxy. It was a blast yesterday. It might be my new 7-11 ft. go to board and like everything in this world it is for sale $475 for the copy and $1475 for the G&S. If anybody wants to ride anything let me know...

Rights

Ocean Beach finally showing some love, sunny, warm, offshore, big...

I surfed a copy of a 1976 G&S Stinger I got. I've had the board for a few week and I've been waiting for the right waves to get it wet. I worked unreal from the first wave.

I had a lot of fun shaping, I always would wondered how shapers can miss surf and be working. The waves were good the whole time I was shaping this past week, I could not stop it was so fun...

Got a few shaped today...

Stoked

Flea

Bombs

All from the lane weekend before last

The last few were of Four Mile.

Some big sets and the inside was glassy.

Some fun little left bowls at Davenport Landing

There were some big rights at Davenport

Ano Nuevo form the South looking North

It always looks good here but the line up is full of rocks, big rocks

Pidigon Point
Fianlly got around to putting some pics of last weekend when the swell hit

Early morning OB 15ft. or so...

I drove the 1 to Santa Cruz and took a bunch of pictures all the way down it's so nice to see big swell in the water.

Today it was about waist high at noon and by 6:00 the swell filled in to well overhead. I tried to get a few shots but the fog rolled in. Looks like surf for a while.